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The design and manufacturing process for the national flag is governed by three documents issued by the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS). All flags are made of silk or cotton Khadi fabric. The standards were created in 1968 and updated in 2008. Nine standard flag sizes are required by law.
In 1951, after India became a republic, the Indian Standards Institute (now BIS) issued the first official specifications for the flag. These were revised in 1964 to align with the metric system adopted in India. The specifications were further changed on August 17, 1968. The specifications cover all the essential requirements for manufacturing the Indian flag, including sizes, dye color, color values, brightness, thread count and hemp cords. The guidelines are protected under civil and criminal law, and defects in the manufacturing process can result in fines or imprisonment.
Khadi, or hand-spun cloth, is the only material that may be used for the flag, and flying a flag of any other material carries a penalty of up to three years imprisonment in addition to a fine. The raw materials for khadi are limited to cotton, silk and wool. Two types of khadi are used: the first is the khadi pennant that forms the body of the flag, and the second is the khadi duck, a beige cloth that holds the flag on the pole. The khadi duck is an unconventional weave that weaves three threads into one fabric compared to the two threads used in conventional weaving. This style of weaving is extremely rare and there are fewer than twenty weavers in India who profess this skill. The guidelines also state that there should be exactly 150 threads per square centimeter, four threads per stitch, and a square foot should weigh exactly 205 grams.
The woven khadi is sourced from two handloom mills in the districts of Dharwad and Bagalkot in northern Karnataka. Currently, Hubli-based Karnataka Khadi Gramodyoga Samyukta Sangha is the only licensed flag production and supply unit in India. Permission to set up flag manufacturing units in India is granted by the Khadi Development and Village Industries Commission, although the BIS has the power to revoke the licenses of units that do not comply with the guidelines.The handwoven khadi for the national flag was originally made in Garag, a small village in Dharwad district. A center was established in Garag in 1954 by some freedom fighters under the banner of Dharwad Taluk Kshetriya Seva Sangh and obtained the center's license to manufacture flags.
After weaving, the material is sent to the BIS laboratories for testing. After quality inspection, if approved, the material is returned to the factory. It is then separated into three batches colored saffron, white and green. The Ashoka Chakra is screen printed, stenciled or embroidered to match on each side of the white fabric. Care must also be taken to ensure that the chakra is fully visible and in sync on both sides. Three pieces of the desired size, one of each colour, are then sewn together to specification and the final product is ironed and boxed. The BIS then checks the colors and only then can the flag be sold.
In December 2021, the Government of India amended the Flag Code to allow flags to be made by machine, as well as the use of alternative materials such as polyester, non-Khadi cotton or silk.
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