At the spring/summer 2024 fashion presentations, the most talked-about collection was the one that wasn't present.The absence of a collection during the spring/summer 2024 fashion presentations was the most talked-about one. For the whole of the month, Phoebe Philo dominated the fashion news cycle. She still hasn't revealed the first pieces of her eponymous label, which was supposed to launch online in September, six years after she left Céline. With the fashion trends for spring/summer 2024 piling up, designers were anxious to see if a seemingly random digital drop by a lady dubbed the fashion industry's messiah would.The announcement that the spring/summer 2024 show would mark Sarah Burton's final collection for Alexander McQueen and that Gabriela Hearst would also be leaving Chloé only served to solidify her cult status as the industry's saviour. Coming soon: Louise Trotter at Carven, Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, Peter Do at Helmut Lang, and Sabato de Sarno at Gucci. Is there a problem with women designers in fashion? Only Dior and Pucci have female creative directors at LVMH, the largest luxury conglomerate in the world; Phoebe Philo and Stella McCartney are run by their own names. Not a single brand at Kering, the second-largest fashion conglomerate, is led by a woman or a person of colour.Against the depressingly stark backdrop of economic and political unrest, designers opted for caution when creating the spring/summer 2024 collection. Black and white overshadowed the color-box brights that usually stand out for summer collections, creating a muted palette. One of the few hues that made it past the muted colour wheel was retina-searing red. The wider range of body types that had started to appear on the runways has mostly disappeared along with the body positivity movement that followed the pandemic and the naked looks that went along with it. 
ou're more culturally savvy than we are if you can watch the short shorts trend calmly without instantly hearing that Royal Teens song from 1957 again, or the Homer Simpson parody. Micro shorts made an appearance on the Milan catwalks, most notably when they opened the Gucci show, which was directed by Sabato de Sarno. They also made an appearance in Paris, where they were seen at Chanel, Alexander McQueen, and Isabel Marant. Consider it the natural outcome of autumn's penchant for not wearing trousers.Statement dresses are out, and in is understated elegance supported by closet mainstays like trench coats, pencil skirts, trouser suits and great jeans. Fashion search engine Tagwalk analysed over 11,000 photos from the spring/summer 2024 runways in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, and found that looks labelled as "minimalism" had increased by 46% from the spring/summer 2023 season.